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patxarán

Glazed gallery and red concrete facade of the Jorge Oteiza Museum beside the sculptor's stone farmhouse, Alzuza, Navarra

Jorge Oteiza Left Every Sculpture He Owned to a Tiny Village Outside Pamplona

Sculptor Jorge Oteiza left 1,690 works to Navarra, not a big city. Why his museum sits in Alzuza near Pamplona, and where to find his
Baroque facade of Pamplona's town hall on the Plaza Consistorial, site of the txupinazo balcony

Plaza Consistorial: The Balcony Is Two Centuries Older Than the Town Hall Behind It

The Plaza Consistorial in Pamplona hides a story most guides skip: the txupinazo balcony facade is two centuries older than the town hall behind it.
Romanesque bridge of Puente la Reina arching over the Rio Arga on the Camino in Navarra

The Two Caminos Do Not Actually Meet at Puente la Reina. They Join Before It.

Puente la Reina is where Navarra's two Camino routes supposedly merge. The real junction is in Obanos. The bridge, the disputed queen, the legend.
Chilled red drink over ice in the style of tinto de verano, the Spanish summer red wine and soda mix

Spain Drinks Tinto de Verano, Not Sangria. It Was Born at One Córdoba Roadside Inn.

Tinto de verano is what locals pour at fiesta while tourists pay for sangria. The Cordoba inn where it began, the mix, and how to
Castillo de Javier fortress towers rebuilt from ruin, Navarra, Spain

San Fermín Is Not Navarra’s Only Patron Saint, and He Nearly Lost the Job

San Francisco Javier is Navarra's co-patron saint alongside San Fermín. The 1657 dispute, the December 3 holiday, and the story nobody tells.
Busy pedestrian street in San Sebastian's Parte Vieja old town, home of the city's densest pintxo bars

Why San Sebastián Is the Pintxo Capital and Pamplona Never Tried to Be

Why San Sebastián became the pintxo capital: txoko societies, Nueva Cocina Vasca, Michelin density, and how Donostia's pintxos differ from Pamplona's.
Stone gateway in the Renaissance city walls of Pamplona, Spain

Pamplona Stayed Inside Its Walls Until 1915, and That Made the City You See Today

Pamplona city walls history without the myths: the 1512 turning point, the Renaissance fortress city, and the 1915 demolition that made modern Pamplona.
Fighting bulls and steers charging through runners on the encierro route, Pamplona

Núñez del Cuvillo Carries Spain’s Most Famous Breeding Surname, and None of Its Blood

The history of Ganadería Núñez del Cuvillo: a famous Núñez name on a Domecq herd, 12 Pamplona runs since 1995, and the son now running